Sew Fitography Review: Part Three
The final part of my review of Sew Fitography and the Sew Fitography sloper pattern is here!
As you can see in my last post I had put together a first version of the sloper and was really pleased with the fit. However I was having some issues with excess fabric around the shoulder.
When getting a “perfect fit” it can be difficult to know when to stop, to avoid over fitting. I ended up working on five versions of the sloper with iterative changes. I didn’t do the skirts or sleeves on most of the slopers, only the first and last. It went pretty quickly actually and I’m now even more adept at speed-sewing darts! So many darts.
The first version was great, but needed more room all over. I had used the 1″ ease option (you can choose a maximum of 2″) but still needed more room.
The Second Version: Waist and Hip
On this version I simply added 3″ to both hip and waist. I think it’s important to make small changes even if it seems more time consuming in the end. The reason for adding this width was that obviously the sloper wasn’t fitting that well, but also this could be causing the dress to pull upwards hence the excess fabric around the shoulders.
After I did this I was able to get into the sloper much more easily (I only made up the bodice in this version) and felt like I had room to breathe! I did feel that some of the excess fabric was removed from the shoulder area, but not enough. The extra room in the waist also highlighted that I needed more room in the bust too, so onto the next…
The Third Version: Bust
In this version I kept the prior changes but added 1.5″ to the bust as I felt it was pulling and causing drag lines from the apex. The 1.5″ was definitely a good amount as I felt the sloper hugged the bust without feeling overly tight. At this stage I actually felt the waist was a little loose. I think the correctly fitting bust made it more obvious that too much room had been added at the waist for a close fit.
I sent the pictures over to Carol at Sew Fitography who also suggested my height might be wrong. Now I was sure it was correct, but conceded perhaps it was the pictures that were a little off or maybe even the fact that I’m slightly out of proportion (longer legs, shorter torso) that gave me too much fabric on the shoulders. This made sense as the bust point also felt low and not sitting on the apex correctly.
So I decided to try dropping my height…
The Fourth Version: Waist and Height
On this version I dropped my waist measurement by 1″ (making it 2″ larger than what I started with) and also reduced my height by a full inch (5′ 4.5″ rather than my actual 5′ 5.5″). This definitely helped with the bust point alignment and I felt the shoulders seemed less square.
The Fifth Version: Armscye changes
The fifth version I sewed both the sleeve and the skirt. Carol made some small adjustments to the armscye and also the neckline on my outline which was loaded into the software. Along with all the other measurement changes, I put together the fifth version.
I was much happier with this fit though there is still a tiny bit of excess in the shoulder area still. I put the sleeve in to see what difference it made and definitely felt the addition of the sleeve smoothed it out a little. However, the sleeve was very tight (skin tight!) and I think my photograph doesn’t do the sloper justice as the narrow sleeve is pulling the whole garment to one side. I definitely needed to add some more ease in the sleeve and put both in to balance the garment.
The Sixth Version: Sleeve adjustment
I decided to add 1.5″ ease all the way down the sleeve to make it more comfortable to wear. I also increased my bicep by 1″ and tried this fit out. The armscye felt comfortable and I think I’m now ready to carry on with my plans to convert this to a more wearable design!
Sorry there are not many pictures in this post. They all slowly start to merge into one horrible white matronly dress… But you should see my pile of toiles!