Butterick B6312 Jumpsuit Review
Hello everyone! I’ve been sewing up some quick makes for summer to enjoy on my Spain holiday next month.
I originally saw B6312 as a finished garment from WhatKatieSews via Instagram. It’s a garment I’d never have considered based on the pattern envelope photographs (it actually looks kinda terrible don’t you think?) but when I saw her version I loved how casual it looked.
Me and jumpsuits do not have a good history. I’ve tried on a few, and they’re not the best for my body shape. I always feel jumpsuits look great on people who are quite straight in the hips, but full busted; so the total opposite to my lumpy pear shape. However I’m always on a quest for comfortable summer clothing, and am trying to get out of the mindset of “everything must make me look thinner”, you know? Sometimes it’s just about comfort and less about the most flattering shape.
I blended XXL and XL sizes. XL at my shoulders and at the base of the leg, and then XXL across the hips, using my french curve to make a nice hip curve. My main concern was going to be the hip circumference and also the rise, as I have always had problems with trousers.
When I tried on the toile, I found that though I could get it on, the proportions were off. Being quite short-waisted, I found that the marked waistline was too low. This caused everything to go out of sync as the curviness I had added to the hip sat almost at my mid thigh, nowhere near my hip. So I decided to make some simple adjustments.
- Slash out 1 inch from the height of the bodice above the bust. I didn’t bother adding an inch back to the sleeve holes as they are large anyway.
- Dropped the V neck by 1.5 inches, to make up the inch lost but also to drop it a little further for a lower V.
- Added 2 inches into the rise. One of these inches was simply adding back what was lost form the top, but the other inch was just to give me a slightly more roomy rise. It ended up being too much, and I reduced it down to only half an inch in the end.
- Cut a toile with extra wide seam allowances at the side and simply pinned myself into the new toile to see how it fitted.
- Eliminated the in-seam pockets. While pockets are nice, they add bulk where I don’t need it.
- Took an inch off the trouser leg length.
I also discovered that B6312 isn’t really that well suited to drapey fabric in my opinion. It seems like it’d be an excellent candidate for viscose challis and the like, but it just causes the garment to really hang at the sides and is not particularly flattering.
B6312 Jumpsuit in Ikat fabric
The Ikat fabric is a gorgeous cotton woven fabric from Minerva Crafts which is pretty pricey, but lovely to work with. It did fray a little but was generally easy to sew. I admit it’s a bit of a shame that it has no origin labels on it, so I don’t even know if it is legitimate Ikat (a woven fabric originating from India), but at least it’s not just a printed-on pattern like many of the “Ikat” fabrics around. A lot of textiles do come from India but if you want to know for definite the origins then there are many shops on around selling beautiful Ikat fabric direct from source.
I’m really pleased with the resultant garment. It feels so comfortable to wear and was a pretty easy sew. I decided to do an exposed metal zip, and the base of my zip insertion is a bit dodgy. I also ended up doing a neckline facing instead of bias binding because I couldn’t get the V right and the fabric was fraying pretty badly after I fiddled with it too much. I would probably do a facing again. I usually don’t like facings but in my eyes they are preferable to bias bindings which I think look a bit more dodgy if you don’t get them perfect. I did do a bias facing on the sleeves however.
I did make a few mistakes. For starters my pattern matching down the centre front is off and I think I stretched the neckline a little, so next time I will properly stay-stitch after cutting.
I’m so in love with this garment that I immediately went out and got some linen-look navy cotton to make a second version. Happy Summer everyone!